1.
Lay down the pegboard fuzzy side up. This is so the poly batting will stick
to the fuzzy side of the board and won't slide around. (Figure 1)
2. Cut the wooden beams so
that the longest length goes all the way to the edges of the pegboard, and
cut the short beams so that they fit on the pegboard.. (Figure 1)
3. Mark and Pre-drill into
the long boards so that you don't split the wood. When gluing, make sure
the marked side gets the glue on it so the nail goes into the other board
centered. There are also other options such as buying some framing brackets
to make a stronger joint. (Figure 2)
4. Glue and then nail the
frame together. Make sure that the side that meets the pegboard is flat
because cheap boards vary in width slightly due to the rough cuts. I'd
clean up any seeping yellow glue with a wet rag. Another option is to use
screws and finishing washers to secure the pegboard but again, that is a
little more work and money but stronger in the end. (Figure 3)
5. To attach the pegboard
I used yellow glue along with steel wire I twisted and then trimmed. I then
used a hammer to bend the twisted knob down into the panel. (Figure 3)
6. Cut the polyester
batting to length size (about 4 feet) and then I cut the width of it in half
because my batting was about 48" wide. The batting sticks to the fuzzy
pegboard and the insulation will stick to the polybatting. The polyester
also acts as a filter to keep the fiberglass particles in the panel and not
in your room. (Figure 4)
7.
*Remember to use protection when working with fiberglass, I
used a mask, gloves, and goggles. It's not deadly, but can cause some itch.
Then cut a layer of 3/5"
thick insulation and layer it on top of the poly batting. This will only
partially cover the width of the panel so you will need to cut another in
half as seen in (Figure 5). Once you've layer down one 3.5" thick
fiberglass you then layer another 3.5" layer except this time you place it
differently as seen in (Figure 6). Notice how thick the panel seems to be,
make sure you push down on the edges so that they are somewhat inside the
panel. Last, put the left over layer you cut of the poly batting on top of
the panel. You will now have a sandwich which goes: (from bottom to top):
Pegboard, polyester, fiberglass, fiberglass, polyester, (and then burlap).
(See pic 3 in Figure 6, See Diagram for Sandwich)
8. Now for my favorite,
part.. the squish and tack. You are going to flip the panel and center it
onto a single burlap sheet which rests on the (clean swept) ground. Then
add a heavy weight on top of the panel as seen in Figure 7.
You will then push down on
the middle so to help squish some more, and tug the burlap on all edges
before tacking to remove any wrinkles. Keep in mind that in my case, the
frame still didn't touch the ground all around because it was pretty
stuffed. When you tack, I pushed in with my finger, and then touched it
with a hammer. It goes into the pegboard nice and strong though I did bend
a few tacks.
9. My special folding
technique is shown in Figure 9, and you can also see how I tacked. I
started with the middle, and then the ends. After I added an in-between,
and then another in-between.
10. FINISHED... Now that you've seen the hours it took
for the panel you can now enjoy absolute ambient noise suffocation. Just
choose a way to install them by either hanging them using eyelets, or making
legs, or just plain mounting them on the wall. Keep in mind the further you
space them away the better the bass absorption. 3-4" would be plenty,
especially if you plan on building DIY bass traps or helmholtz resonators to
control the bass frequencies.
