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100% Made in USA
JDM Design
FI Supports:
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WHITELINE REAR SWAYBAR & KARTBOY ENDLINKS This walkthrough will guide you through replacing the rear sway bar and end-links. Perform modifications to you car at your own risk. Be sure to do your research ahead of time in selecting a proper size, type (solid or hollow, adjustable or non-adj), model, and brand. Installation was performed on a 2006 WRX Sedan. Size Guide: Whiteline Automotive http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WL_0350.pdf (see page 4) Rear Suspension Diagram:
10. Rear Stabilizer 11. Stabilizer Bracket 12. Stabilizer Bushing 13. Clamp 22. Rear Lateral Link 23. Stabilizer Link
Torque specs:
Tools needed:
Parts Inventory:
*It is recommended that this modification be done while the suspension is loaded. *Due to the huge muffler, the stock exhaust may have to be temporarily removed. For this guide, an aftermarket exhaust did not need to be removed
1. Put the rear on ramps. This is the rear-driver side. Remove the bolt at the lateral link. Make note of the orientation of the nut and bolt. You will be re-using this later.
2. This is the rear-passenger side. Remove the bolt at the lateral link.
3. Driver side clamp and bracket. Loosen bolts but do not remove all the way yet. Note that the arrow points toward the front of the car.
4. Passenger side clamp and bracket. Loosen bolts but do not remove all the way yet. Note that the arrow points toward the front of the car.
5. Unplug this wire harness.
5. Before you completely remove the swaybar, it is recommended that this wire be unplugged and moved out of the way. Be careful not to drop the stock swaybar. It is helpful to have another set of hands here.
6. All bolts need to be reused. Keep track of which side the clamps originate.
OPTIONAL: Steps 7~15 are optional. Zerk fittings are recommended but not required. You’re gonna need a drill for this. If you are not installing Zerk fittings, skip to Step 16.
7. Mark the clamp, eyeball somewhere inside the arrowhead.
8. Drill a hole in the clamp. Use a firm surface.
9. Notice drilling location on the arrowhead.
10. Zerk fittings ready to be installed.
11. Use the correct size bit.
12.
13. Drill a hole in the bushing.
14. Test fit the Zerk. DO NOT hammer it in yet!
15. DO NOT apply force on the clamps on a flat surface, it will bend! Use a socket to keep it afloat, and hammer it in.
16. Note the approximate locations of the bushings on the stock swaybar. Before installing the bushings, make sure to use plenty of grease inside the bearing.
17. Put the clamp over it and hand-tighten the bolts to the brackets and endlinks. Note the arrows point toward the front of the car.
18. Bring out the torque wrench.
19. Torque the bolts. Clamp to Bracket – (OEM 18.1 ft-lb) (Recommended 20 ft-lb) Endlink to Lateral Link – (OEM 33.2 ft-lb) (Recommended 40 ft-lb)
20. Go for a test drive. Don’t push the car too hard just yet. After checking for anomalies, re-torque the bolts. You’re done! Take it easy while you get used to how the car handles. It should feel completely different in corners. Use proper discretion and NEVER risk safety of others, as well as your own. Drive Responsibly!
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